Via de la plata
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Friday, February 25, 2011
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
day 6 - Thu; 4th day walk and home
Montamarta - Granja de Moreruela 22 km
Cold morning but a good breakfast in a nearby bar. Today was our last day walking and Brian an I decided to stick together and walk our own (snails pace). It was very misty all morning and even felt a rain drop or two. It cleared up beautifully and spirits were high and even though we had to grit our teeth the last couple of kilometers it was a very enjoyable day.
The Alberque had an adjoining bar and served food as well, we had a great evening celebrating our walking achievement 116.6 km in four days. After putting Joost and Brian to bed (1 bottle too many!) fell sound asleep myself.
The following morning there was a small incident with a jacket that was left in the bar but as there was also confusion about the bus timetable it was recovered before any doors had to be kicked in.
We took the bus to Zamora and the 3pm bus to Madrid, we stayed in a very reasonable hotel and then flew home on Saturday.
Joost and Rob!! Many Many thanks for your hospitality and allowing us to join you on your pilgrimage! We were in awe of your achievement and wish you the very best for the remaining 300km.
Cold morning but a good breakfast in a nearby bar. Today was our last day walking and Brian an I decided to stick together and walk our own (snails pace). It was very misty all morning and even felt a rain drop or two. It cleared up beautifully and spirits were high and even though we had to grit our teeth the last couple of kilometers it was a very enjoyable day.
The Alberque had an adjoining bar and served food as well, we had a great evening celebrating our walking achievement 116.6 km in four days. After putting Joost and Brian to bed (1 bottle too many!) fell sound asleep myself.
The following morning there was a small incident with a jacket that was left in the bar but as there was also confusion about the bus timetable it was recovered before any doors had to be kicked in.
We took the bus to Zamora and the 3pm bus to Madrid, we stayed in a very reasonable hotel and then flew home on Saturday.
- Will I do this again? YES
- Will I be better prepaired? Yes but we only brought to much gear because it stayed dry
- Will I walk 42 km on the first day? NOOOO WAY! Plan it so you can do a few days sub 20 km in the first week and get properly 'acclimatized'
Joost and Rob!! Many Many thanks for your hospitality and allowing us to join you on your pilgrimage! We were in awe of your achievement and wish you the very best for the remaining 300km.
Day 5 - Wed; 3rd day walk
Zamora - Montamarta 18 km
First kilometers up hill and out of town, the old city centre is small and picturesque compared to the suburban sprawl that is Zamora. The only benefit of walking on the main road through industrial areas is that we finally found a hardware store that sold the gas canisters for our Jetboil system.
The walk today was uninspiring and our feet were pretty much hurting constantly. The blisters were grand (Compeed is magic stuff!) but the soreness was just due to fatigue.
We had a beautiful lunch served by a very friendly waitress who scolded me for not eating all of my dessert.
Again the last 5 km were a killer, Joost and myself took an extended break with about 4 km to go and while lying in the grass and gazing at a bird of prey of some sort it's partner swooped down with a tremendous whack only 15 ft from me and by the time i looked up it was coming out of the high grass in the ditch next to the road with it's prey, either a small bird or vole. Amazing!
by the time we finally reached Montamarta Brian and Rob had already settled in the bar on the other side of town. We made our way to the Alberque where after a quick phone call to the keeper of the keys we entered, door was already open, to find it was freezing with no heating whatsoever!!
There was a fireplace in the 'living room' and Joost left to get firewood in the petrol station up the road. It took a few minutes to get the fire going but once lit kept going nicely.
Brian left us in the smoke to find a bar to watch the Spanish international football match (Spain - Columbia 1-0) He told me that when he walked home the mist had descended on the freezing town and when the church bells started to chime he was certain the zombies were going to come out and feast on us Pilgrims.
Anyway, even with 3 additional woolen blankets it was freezing and i woke several time shivering.
First kilometers up hill and out of town, the old city centre is small and picturesque compared to the suburban sprawl that is Zamora. The only benefit of walking on the main road through industrial areas is that we finally found a hardware store that sold the gas canisters for our Jetboil system.
The walk today was uninspiring and our feet were pretty much hurting constantly. The blisters were grand (Compeed is magic stuff!) but the soreness was just due to fatigue.
We had a beautiful lunch served by a very friendly waitress who scolded me for not eating all of my dessert.
Again the last 5 km were a killer, Joost and myself took an extended break with about 4 km to go and while lying in the grass and gazing at a bird of prey of some sort it's partner swooped down with a tremendous whack only 15 ft from me and by the time i looked up it was coming out of the high grass in the ditch next to the road with it's prey, either a small bird or vole. Amazing!
by the time we finally reached Montamarta Brian and Rob had already settled in the bar on the other side of town. We made our way to the Alberque where after a quick phone call to the keeper of the keys we entered, door was already open, to find it was freezing with no heating whatsoever!!
There was a fireplace in the 'living room' and Joost left to get firewood in the petrol station up the road. It took a few minutes to get the fire going but once lit kept going nicely.
Brian left us in the smoke to find a bar to watch the Spanish international football match (Spain - Columbia 1-0) He told me that when he walked home the mist had descended on the freezing town and when the church bells started to chime he was certain the zombies were going to come out and feast on us Pilgrims.
Anyway, even with 3 additional woolen blankets it was freezing and i woke several time shivering.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Day 4 - Tue; 2nd day walk
El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino - Zamora 33 km
So waking up in a bunkbed in a room with 3 more bunkbeds after walking 42 km is an experience in itself. It was cold but the alarm was set for 7 and at 8 we were back on the road. Initially the path followed a disused railway track and I encountered deer tracks. We then passed through farm land and slowly climbed to a ridge from which we could see a large valley and the town were we would stop for lunch. We had some coffee and toast and after 20 minutes were joined by 3 Spanish pilgrims who had started their pilgrimage in Salamanca and where going to Santiago via Portugal. They claimed this was an easier and shorter route and seemed eager for Joost and Rob to follow the same route. They had stayed in the same Alberque the previous night. After 20 km we came to another ridge from which we could see Zamora in the distance (Approx.. 10 km). At this point we were glad to see Zamora but it was disheartening to find that the city looked equally far away after every kilometer we walked, strange that!
The last 5k today were the hardest I ever walked they made yesterday look like a stroll in the park. Blisters have appeared and my feet need some TLC! While Joost and Brian walked ahead Rob was good enough to match my much slower pace and keep me company (Thanks Rob). Once we arrived in town we asked Joost to find the Hotel to ensure we did not have to walk around unnecessarily. After a hot shower and some foot repair we walked around the corner to a local restaurant for food and vino.
Tomorrow it will a little easier, 18 km and 22 the following day before we head back to Madrid and home
So waking up in a bunkbed in a room with 3 more bunkbeds after walking 42 km is an experience in itself. It was cold but the alarm was set for 7 and at 8 we were back on the road. Initially the path followed a disused railway track and I encountered deer tracks. We then passed through farm land and slowly climbed to a ridge from which we could see a large valley and the town were we would stop for lunch. We had some coffee and toast and after 20 minutes were joined by 3 Spanish pilgrims who had started their pilgrimage in Salamanca and where going to Santiago via Portugal. They claimed this was an easier and shorter route and seemed eager for Joost and Rob to follow the same route. They had stayed in the same Alberque the previous night. After 20 km we came to another ridge from which we could see Zamora in the distance (Approx.. 10 km). At this point we were glad to see Zamora but it was disheartening to find that the city looked equally far away after every kilometer we walked, strange that!
The last 5k today were the hardest I ever walked they made yesterday look like a stroll in the park. Blisters have appeared and my feet need some TLC! While Joost and Brian walked ahead Rob was good enough to match my much slower pace and keep me company (Thanks Rob). Once we arrived in town we asked Joost to find the Hotel to ensure we did not have to walk around unnecessarily. After a hot shower and some foot repair we walked around the corner to a local restaurant for food and vino.
Tomorrow it will a little easier, 18 km and 22 the following day before we head back to Madrid and home
Day 3 - Monday; 1st day walking
Salamanca - El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 38 km
So this is it! Our first day walking de Via de la Plata with Joost and Rob. We walked once again though the magnificient town of Salamanca from the south to the north. At the northern outskirts a quick cafe con leche and churios (Spanish donuts). The planned walk is 38 kilometers but as we walked through the town we clocked a 41.8 which took us a 9 hours and 47 minutes including breaks wich translates to an average speed of 4.3km/hour. We walked a lot quicker in the morning, first 20km - 5.4km/hour on tarmac and harpacked sand paths.
After 34 kim I still felt surprisinglky good. I changed my opinion only 3 Km later. everything started to ache and my calves were tightening up. Brian was the same but our two senior companions were still skipping along (relatively speaking).
By the way; Happy Birthday to Rob how turned 64 today!!!.
Anyway our final destination was a sight for sore eyes and well... sore everything really!
After a refreshing beer in the local bar we found the Alberque which had 3 rooms with each 3 bunk beds as well as a small kitchen and 'living-room', 2 bathrooms and a small court-yard. Thankfully we had an electric heater as the nights are still very cold (-2C). We went back to the bar for a decent menu with wine for 11 euro.
So we walked a full Marathon with a 11.5kg backpack!!! Not bad hey!!!
So this is it! Our first day walking de Via de la Plata with Joost and Rob. We walked once again though the magnificient town of Salamanca from the south to the north. At the northern outskirts a quick cafe con leche and churios (Spanish donuts). The planned walk is 38 kilometers but as we walked through the town we clocked a 41.8 which took us a 9 hours and 47 minutes including breaks wich translates to an average speed of 4.3km/hour. We walked a lot quicker in the morning, first 20km - 5.4km/hour on tarmac and harpacked sand paths.
After 34 kim I still felt surprisinglky good. I changed my opinion only 3 Km later. everything started to ache and my calves were tightening up. Brian was the same but our two senior companions were still skipping along (relatively speaking).
By the way; Happy Birthday to Rob how turned 64 today!!!.
Anyway our final destination was a sight for sore eyes and well... sore everything really!
After a refreshing beer in the local bar we found the Alberque which had 3 rooms with each 3 bunk beds as well as a small kitchen and 'living-room', 2 bathrooms and a small court-yard. Thankfully we had an electric heater as the nights are still very cold (-2C). We went back to the bar for a decent menu with wine for 11 euro.
So we walked a full Marathon with a 11.5kg backpack!!! Not bad hey!!!
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Day 2 - Salamanca
As Joost and Rob had scheduled a rest day in Salamanca we took the opportunity to do a little sight seeing and ventured into the beautiful city centre. First we stopped for some coffee and tortilla for breakfast and did some shopping as well as visit the bureau for tourism to ensure we did not miss any sights. The old city has a fantastic awe inspiring Cathedral (old and new) and other churches as well as musea and old streets etc.
We enjoyed a nice menu for 12 euro in a city centre restaurant. The food in spain is great!
Joost tried to get Brian and I some pilgrim passports so that we could get our Pilgrim stamps along the way. Unfortunately however the gentleman that advised us yesterday to call today at 5 p.m. suffered from amnesia and now suggested to call him on Monday morning at 10 am. As we were starting our walk at 8 am this wasn't going to work for us. <(
After visiting another beautiful church we headed back to the hotel for a little rest and later that evening ventured out with Rob for a drink in the local bar.
We enjoyed a nice menu for 12 euro in a city centre restaurant. The food in spain is great!
Joost tried to get Brian and I some pilgrim passports so that we could get our Pilgrim stamps along the way. Unfortunately however the gentleman that advised us yesterday to call today at 5 p.m. suffered from amnesia and now suggested to call him on Monday morning at 10 am. As we were starting our walk at 8 am this wasn't going to work for us. <(
After visiting another beautiful church we headed back to the hotel for a little rest and later that evening ventured out with Rob for a drink in the local bar.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
day 1 Dublin Salamanca
So a very early start as the flight from Dublin to Madrid left at 6:25 which meant getting up at 4am. Not great for me hitting my pillow at 11pm. We flew from the new Terminal 2 which I have to admit is very impressive.
After landing in Madrid we made our way over to the METRO line 8 which for 2 euro brought us to Minesterio Nuevo from there the train on the Cercanias line to Mendez Alvaro which is the National bus station.
we arrived there at 11:35 but were told the 12'o'clock bus was full so 2 tickets on the 1pm departure would do nicely.
After some refreshments (yes beer) we promptly boarded and slept through most of the 2:30hour bus trip.
The countryside wasn't all that inspiring but I did notice we were steadily climbing. I believe Salamanca is at 806 meters altitude. The drive into the city is impressive as the huge cathedral loomes high above the surrounding buildings and flats. We walking into town and quickly found Joost and Rob who had only just arrived there just before us, or at least with enough time to order and finish their first beer before we got another order in. After a lovely lunch for 12 euro and a bottle of wine we made our way to the hotel (Hotel Parador de Salamanca) and after getting refreshed made our way back into town for tapas, beer and wine. Tomorrow we will further explore this beatifull city and make our plan for the remainder of the week.
After landing in Madrid we made our way over to the METRO line 8 which for 2 euro brought us to Minesterio Nuevo from there the train on the Cercanias line to Mendez Alvaro which is the National bus station.
we arrived there at 11:35 but were told the 12'o'clock bus was full so 2 tickets on the 1pm departure would do nicely.
After some refreshments (yes beer) we promptly boarded and slept through most of the 2:30hour bus trip.
The countryside wasn't all that inspiring but I did notice we were steadily climbing. I believe Salamanca is at 806 meters altitude. The drive into the city is impressive as the huge cathedral loomes high above the surrounding buildings and flats. We walking into town and quickly found Joost and Rob who had only just arrived there just before us, or at least with enough time to order and finish their first beer before we got another order in. After a lovely lunch for 12 euro and a bottle of wine we made our way to the hotel (Hotel Parador de Salamanca) and after getting refreshed made our way back into town for tapas, beer and wine. Tomorrow we will further explore this beatifull city and make our plan for the remainder of the week.
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